Yesterday we had a vacation day to Rara Lake. In the 2 days prior the fine dust had become suspended throughout the entire valley. It coated the view - almost like a thick smoke from a fire. We were hoping to get above the dust by going to Rara. We first drove up the road past the aiport and then turned off to continue up towards the lake. Have any of you ever been on the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland? Driving here is like that, except the thrill is greater because you are not on a track and their is always a cliff to role of if the driver makes a wrong move. ;) At a certain point we got out of the jeep and then we continued on foot. The dust in the air was much less and we could breathe in the air of the forest. The lake is very large and beautiful. When we arrived the horses were grazing on an open space by the beach. Across from us there appeared to be a village - a few people were there grazing their animals. We got our feet wet in the cold lake - it was refreshing. Then Pema and I went for a hike along the lake. On our walk we were able to see some rhododendrons even though the season is almost over. It was nice to get out in nature - away from people and the dust.

Today the sky has cleared a bit and the plane came in which we are happy about, hopefully it holds and our plane will come in to take us back tomorrow. Cathy, Nani and I will go and Jill and Pema will stay to go to another community that is at least a 6hr walk away. Today we went to Karkiwada, a small village near Gamghadi where we are staying. It is a very poor community, however they have a birth centre. It was built after there were 2 maternal deaths in the community and the community then rallied together and asked for a birth centre. It is funded by a German - local NGO partnership. 2 ANMs work there. Both were in our training the other day. When we arrived no one was there, but within 10 min the place was full of women. We decided to interview them in focus groups so they would not have to wait as long. At first they thought we were there to hand out medicine...apparently white people, trekkers etc. just give out medicine. I think that is so irresponsible...to give out medicine without really understanding what the health problem is or being able to provide follow up. One of the mothers wanted us to help her baby with scabies. We told her she should take the baby to the health post or hospital as we were not providing medical care, only asking questions of the community because we believe that solutions to problems in the community will come from the community itself.

Some very engaging female leaders.

The focus groups went very well. The women seemed eager to share their stories. I have been given permission to share some general information from our research over the past week which I think you will find interesting. In the past here there has been a cultural belief that women who are menstruating or who are giving birth will pollute the household. Therefore they were not allowed to be in the house and had to go to an outside place, usually where the animals were during the time of their period or for birth. This place called the Goath, and whether it is still used is of interest to us when talking about birth planning preparedness. Because of the pollution women often delivered alone. The government of Nepal does not condone this practice and we are curious if it is still happening. Some women say, no, it is not happening anymore and others say it is. From what we gather, although some people still do use it, is is less common now, especially for birth as women are going to facilities more often to birth (where facilities exist). Women who live far from the birthing centre and those who deliver at night often still deliver at home. For menstruation, being in the Goath still happens, but for most families the women are not in the Goath with the animals, they are in a separated room on the house. We are informed that this is better because the women are in the home or very near it and there is less concern for their safety. Having seen the old Goath where the animals are and the new one attached to the house I would say so too.

Room below house is old Goath, tin room above is the new one.

                                                                                                              Gamghadi traffic jam!

One of our questions is about decision making. Who makes the decision about where a woman will give birth? Who needs to be educated about safe birth? (In my own words, who has the power?)  A few people say they make decision collaboratively. Mostly however it is Sasura, Shriman and Sasu. Father in-law, husband and mother-in-law. Women seem to have very little say in what happens in their lives. So there is change, but as always, change is slow. I keep thinking that the men must be part of the change. There has to be some men who look and say, it is not right that we control everything the women do,  that women deserve a say in what happens to them. In everything women should have a say, but especially in menstruation and birth. When we talk to women and ask questions it is very obvious that the key to a better life for women truly is education. The women who are educated, they can articulate problems and solutions - they have critical thinking skills and they are keen to make change in their communities. The ones with low education when probed for solutions to problems have a hard time understanding what we are even asking them about and find it difficult to articulate solutions. This post is dedicated to the many incredible women we have met over this past week in Mugu. It is their strength in the face of great adversity, it is their push for education for themselves and their children that will continue to improve life for women, and all people in this region.