Was it an adventure?

May 7 Pokhara

Today was a 'rest' day to help K + K deal with jet lag before we start our clinical placement in Baglung on Monday.

In the morning we had a lovely breakfast on our rooftop patio and then we got organized for our day. Krista and Cathy decided to go for a walk and explore this side of Fewa lake we are on, Mickey went about taking many gorgeous photos of birds, boats, people and more birds, and Kristi and I decided to rent bikes.

We read a short blurb in a magazine that said there were many mountain bike trails around Pohkara. full stop. At the bike shop I tried out the bikes, all of them crappy. One of them felt like the pedals were screwing themselves of the bike. I chose the least bad one I could fine. Then I asked for a map. No map. I asked for directions and was told to head out of town towards Devil's falls. So I went and saw the path and headed for it and was stopped by an army official. He informed me I could not go that way, army base. I explained I was looking for devil's falls. He said to take the main road. I told him the main road was too dangerous, I wanted to take the path. Meanwhile, there were people walking and cycling on the path I could clearly see. Finally another man came and told him to let me go in. So I did. Only to discover the path ended in less than 1km and I was in an enclosed field. After wrangling my bike through the turn style I headed back to get Kristi, a bit defeated. Then Cathy said there was a road out of town around the lake. After lunch we headed that way.

Soon we were on a stone and dirt road with a few other bikes, cars and the occasional bus but traffic was sparse and slow. The sun beat down strongly as we made our way winding around the lake through two villages. At one point we came to a fork and asked a young boy on a mountain bike how to get around Fewa lake to Pokhara. He pointed the way and we followed. Soon we crossed a footbridge. On the other side there was a driveway up and some steps down. I asked again which way and the young boy pointed down. At which point there was much laughing and an olderboy cuffed him across the head. he informed us there was no way around the lake but that there was a road and we could go for awhile and then come back.

So we did. First at the wetlands at the end where we watched cattle grazing and people farming and then we continued up and down as the track winded around the lake. It was incredible. No other vehicles, or cyclists and very few people. The people we met were mostly going about their daily life on the lake. We ran into one adorable woman who came out and hugged Kristi and patted her on the head. She then told her she was so beautiful because she was so white and tall. Kristi said "No, you are so beautiful." I told her ramro, ramro. She hugged us both and laughed and we went on our way.

We ran into a few buffalo who were startled by us and a few times we outran them on our bikes. After ascending and descending along the track a few more times we decided the road must continue around the lake and we were determined to go all the way. At this point turning around would have made for a very long trip indeed and we wanted to make it back before dark. Then we began climbing very very steeply. The rocks on the road made it especially difficult and our tires started slipping a lot. We finally had to walk the steepest parts, riding the less steep parts up and up and up. At the top of one hill there was a house and some more boys came to great us and ask for chocolate. (Aside: all the children in Pokhara are very used to tourists and demand chocolate and money - we do not oblige them. We just smile and say No, we don't have any.) They asked us if we were heading to the Stupa. I said no, Pohkara. They told me, no road to Pokhara, you need to go by boat, we can take you. I said no - the road was still going. I figured they wanted us to take a boat and so wasn't ready to believe them. So we continued down for awhile and then again climbing (and walking). Then the road descended steeply and we inched and bumped our way down. In places the road was washed out in deep groves. I should mention at this point that the entire day we were concerned our crappy bikes would split in two. They were definitely not mountain bikes although appeared deceptively to be them. Fortunately we made it. At the point we came to another fork where a young man was tending his cows. I asked for the way to Pohkara due to another fork. He said, this is the end of the road. We needed to take a boat. He said he could take us for $1000 rupees ($10US) I said, too much and tried to bargain with him. Kristi said she would pay $1000 rupees though and then the bargaining was over. We headed down the steep hill pushing our bikes after the cows. Then down some steps, then along a narrow footpath, through the barnyard and some gates, around a cornfield, up some steps and then down more steps to the beach.

At the beach his young daughter helped him bail out our boat and then his kayak and our bikes were loaded in the front. Kristi and I volunteered to help paddle and so we took turns all the way across to the dock near where we are staying.

We made it most of the way around the lake - had there been a road we think it would have been maximum another 30min of riding. But the surprise ending and experience of paddling on Fewa lake was great fun and we are glad it turned out that way!

The whole day was very enjoyable. We had a very fun adventure and got to see some beautiful countryside. After having hot showers and a good meal including our new staple, frozen lassis, we fell into a deep sleep.

This morning when we woke up the mountains were visible! So amazing! Also Jaquie, our first night here the lassis were on you, so thank you! We LOVE them! We are getting our fill because we know it'll be noodles or dahl baht and takari for the next 3.5 weeks!